You can’t really walk on that, can you?
It’s the number one question I get when people ask me about floorcloths. My answer? Of course you can!
Nowadays we have this great stuff called “polyurethane”. I use an acrylic, marine grade poly which is as tough as nails and stands up to all kinds of wear. Heavy furniture, big dogs, wild children and muddy workboots are not a problem for this stuff. It’s a heavy-duty plastic coating which protects the beautiful painted surface of your floorcloth and it will keep protecting that surface for years and years.
Now you can order a quart can of this poly right from Canvasworks! It’s $20 and is really the best stuff I can recommend.
So, why is this scary? Because after you’ve spent all this time making the most beautiful floorcloth ever, you’re going to cover it with this cloudy, gooey mess.Trust me. It’s REALLY scary the first time you do it!
Here’s a video showing how I apply the final coats of poly to each of my customer’s floorcloths:
If you’re finishing up a floorcloth project and you’re ready to poly here’s what you’ll need:
-A sheet of drop cloth plastic to cover your table
-A “Pet Hair Roller Refill” placed on a small roller brush handle (to pick up lint and dust)
-A 4″ nylon bristle paint brush (for applying the poly)
-Polyurethane
—-I recommend Sherwin William’s Sher Clear, semi gloss finish
—-or use JW etc’s Right Step Water Base Clear Varnish
Gather all of your stuff. Cover the table with the plastic and tape the edges down.
Lay your floorcloth out on the plastic and roll over it with the lint picker-upper to remove any stray particles.
Dip your brush into the poly and start applying it in smooth, even strokes. Continue until the entire surface is covered in one smooth, fairly thick coat. Do not overwork the poly. It will start to dry and make a mess. Here’s where you’ll be a little scared- The poly will be milky an d streaky and you’re going to think you just ruined your work of art. Fear not! Walk away. It will be OK. It will dry clear in about 3 hours. Be sure the room is dry (not too humid) and at least 60 degrees. Be sure to crack a window or have good ventilation. Wash your brush out thoroughly in warm, soapy water.
Come back in not less than 3 hours and if it is dry and clear, you can paint the next coat the same way. Apply at least 3 coats and allow at least 24 hours for final drying before you put the floorcloth on the floor and walk on it. If it gets dirty just damp mop. If the floorcloth is in a high traffic area you may want to re-poly once every two years or so. Just give it a really good cleaning first, let it dry completely, and then apply another coat as you did before.
This is the second video-enhanced tip I’ve posted (the first one was “How to Stencil on Canvas”) and I plan to do more. Any feedback about what floorcloth topics you’d find helpful are definitely encouraged!
November 18th, 2009 at 8:18 am
Hi Lisa, I had put Minwax oil based poly semi gloss down on a 2×3 first try. I read your tips then applied a couple of coats of the Sherwin brand semi-gloss on top. It seemed quite shiny so I tried their “flat” version on top and have noticed cracking. I have it in a garage that is quite cold now. Could the cold be the issue with the cracking or is it the multiple types of poly? Also, does the shine subside a bit? Your floorcloths don’t seem that glossy. Thanks for your input!
November 20th, 2009 at 8:46 am
I am having the same issues with the shine. Also, do you poly the back of the floorcloth?
November 20th, 2009 at 9:02 am
Hi Jo! Glad I’m not the only one with the shine issue. I thought I was doing something wrong. It is super shiny. I am not putting poly on the back. I am using Lisa’s floorcloth book and it didn’t mention putting it on the back. I bought the double sided carpet tape as she suggested and it makes it sit very flat on the floor—because I noticed mine was curling a bit on some sides.
January 24th, 2010 at 5:27 pm
Make sure you stir the poly thoroughly before applying. The stuff that dulls the shine sits on the bottom of the can. Use a wooden stir stick to pull it up and stir it in. Don’t shake the can! It will cause bubbles that won’t go away!
January 24th, 2010 at 5:49 pm
Your class is so inspiring and I am looking forward to more classes. Except for the video delivery problem which I will look into,i loved your clear teaching and I learned new tips. Thank you for being so available and ordering the right poly at a reasonable cost to us. This has been really fun!
January 25th, 2010 at 4:16 pm
Thanks for making the poly available. I still have some of my gallon left, but this will be very helpful in the future. Also, great news about the colors becoming available!! Keep us posted.
Thanks again for the class! Lana
February 4th, 2010 at 4:52 pm
I couldn’t find the link to part 3 for the painting of the sunflower.
I would really like to do a water lily on mine. Do you have any pattern for one? I am going to practice on canvas scrap before I try it on my 2′x3′ rug. I changed colors to light teal and turquoise diamonds.
This has been great fun! Thanks again.
March 9th, 2010 at 8:02 am
I was wondering about palce mats -Do you hem them or not?
I also was wondering do you have to use Gesso for the cloths or can you use latex primer. as suggested? Do you have to prime the back or can you put just the polyurathane on it. I want to save $$$. .Thanks ever so much.
I have made 15 floor cloths and love them as do my friends and family but they seem rather expensive in the out come so your tips of any kind would be greatly. appreciated..
Thanks Darla
March 9th, 2010 at 9:43 am
I don’t hem placemats because we use really heavy canvas. The turned edge would be too thick and cause glasses to be tippy, etc.
Our prepared canvas blanks are primed on the front. I don’t do anything to the backs. Again,heavy canvas means you don’t have to put extra coats on.