The Scariest Thing You’ll Do to Your Floorcloth!

You can’t really walk on that, can you?

It’s the number one question I get when people ask me about floorcloths. My answer? Of course you can!

Nowadays we have this great stuff called “polyurethane”. I use an acrylic, marine grade poly which is as tough as nails and stands up to all kinds of wear. Heavy furniture, big dogs, wild children and muddy workboots are not a problem for this stuff. It’s a heavy-duty plastic coating which protects the beautiful painted surface of your floorcloth and it will keep protecting that surface for years and years.

So, why is this scary? Because after you’ve spent all this time making the most beautiful floorcloth ever, you’re going to cover it with this cloudy, gooey mess.Trust me. It’s REALLY scary the first time you do it!

Here’s a video showing how I apply  the final coats of poly to each of my customer’s floorcloths:

If you’re finishing up a floorcloth project and you’re ready to poly here’s what you’ll need:

-A sheet of drop cloth plastic to cover your table

-A “Pet Hair Roller Refill” placed on a small roller brush handle (to pick up lint and dust)

-A 4″ nylon bristle paint brush (for applying the poly)

-Polyurethane

—-I recommend Sherwin William’s Sher Clear, semi gloss finish

—-or use JW etc’s Right Step Water Base Clear Varnish

Gather all of your stuff. Cover the table with the plastic and tape the edges down.

Lay your floorcloth out on the plastic and roll over it with the lint picker-upper to remove any stray particles.

Dip your brush into the poly and start applying it in smooth, even strokes. Continue until the entire surface is covered in one smooth, fairly thick coat. Do not overwork the poly. It will start to dry and make a mess. Here’s where you’ll be a little scared- The poly will be milky an d streaky and you’re going to think you just ruined your work of art. Fear not! Walk away. It will be OK. It will dry clear in about 3 hours. Be sure the room is dry (not too humid) and at least 60 degrees. Be sure to crack a window or have good ventilation. Wash your brush out thoroughly in warm, soapy water.

Come back in not less than 3 hours and if it is dry and clear, you can paint the next coat the same way.  Apply at least 3 coats and allow at least 24 hours for final drying before you put the floorcloth  on the floor and walk on it. If it gets dirty just damp mop. If the floorcloth is in a high traffic area you may want to re-poly once every two years or so. Just give it a really good cleaning first, let it dry completely, and then apply another coat as you did before.

This is the second video-enhanced tip I’ve posted (the first one was “How to Stencil on Canvas”) and I plan to do more. Any feedback about what floorcloth topics you’d find helpful are definitely encouraged!

4 Responses

1. Wanda Says:
   November 6th, 2009 at 10:02 am

   Do you ever have problems with the poly cracking when you roll the floorcloth for shipping? How about in places like North Dakota when it is 30 below?

2. lisa Says:
   November 6th, 2009 at 10:44 am

   I am using marine- grade paint as well as this poly. The stuff is great! after a year rolled up you can unroll it, twist it and fold it and it doesn’t crack.

3. Katie Says:
   November 6th, 2009 at 11:45 am

   Which brand of marine grade paint do you prefer? I am using Behr latex enamel. Is this ok for keeping the floorcloth rolled up as well without cracking?Thank you for the Sherwin Williams recommendation for the clear coat and for the helpful video!

4. Laurel Anderson Says:
   November 8th, 2009 at 7:58 am

   Fabulous! Thank you so much Lisa.You are my floor cloth guru.

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